HEAT AND PAPER TRANSFERS – NOTES ON PROCESS

PROCESS VIDEOS + PHOTOS
PAPER TRANSFERS

METHOD

– Print images on normal A4 paper, trimmdown to size, cover image with PVA glue and place face down onto paper of your choice.
– Smooth out image, making sure there isn’t any bubbles and any excess glue around the edges is wiped away.
– Wait for glue to dry or dry with hair dryer until paper is stiff to the touch and no longer feels ‘gloopy’.
– When dry, use a cloth to cover the image with water and start to initially rub away the top surface of the paper. Continue to put water onto the image, or keep wet enough so the paper is able to disintegrate when you rub away the top layer of paper.
– When you are satisfied with the amount of image that is showing, wipe away any bits of excess paper and let air dry, or dry with a hair dryer.
– I personally covered the image with a layer of glue when finished with the transfer, making sure that the image was slightly damp before, just so the top layer of white paper doesn’t show up.

  • works better with thicker glue, spread evenly over whole surface (don’t miss edges/corners) – this makes sure that there is more image that transfers and when rubbing away the paper, the ink is not so easy to come away from the paper.
  • using lots of water to soak the initial paper that is to be rubbed away is much more effective, as you can really get a good layer of paper away before starting to get to close to the ink and starting to take that layer off aswell. You can always iron the paper flat, or dry it with a hair dryer if it proves to be a massive problem.  Make sure the glue is completely dry however, before soaking with water (either wait or use a high power hairdryer to dry it).
  • The lighter prints seem to work nicely with WHITE coloured paper, as the yellow tint coming through the gaps in the ink where it has been rubbed away does not work with the more overexposed images, the white in the print not quite working with the rest of the image when it has a noticeable off white tint.
  • Rubbing one area too harshly can take up too much ink, but if you use a rolling motion, sometimes the paper can be smoothed back over the area in order to ‘put the image back together’.
  • Ripping the sides of the original images before transferring can have a nice effect, already starting off that ‘decaying’ process before removing some of the ink and having the more obvious depictions come through. This works aswell if the paper you transfer onto doesn’t have necessarily straight edges, working with a much more ‘free’ shape.
  • A white border/space around the images introduces a different feel to the transfer, and with an ink pen line border it almost turns the piece into a ‘mini piece of art’ instead of a piece of paper with a peeling image on it.

 

HEAT TRANSFERS

METHOD

– Print images on heat transfer paper, following suppliers instructions.
– Trim images down to size, place onto fabric of choice and run a hot iron roughly over the whole image in order for the initial transfer to take place.
– Start then to be more considerate with the ironing, making sure you pay attention to edges and corners.
– When you think the image has transfered (test by peeling up a corner), peel away the top sheet and fix the image by ironing again with the silicon sheet placed over the top.

  • image and material start to turn yellow if iron is too hot or if ironed for too long . This was okay on the cream cotton, as the whites seemed to blend in, but for the lighter white material, it was a problem as it didn’t really suit the aesthetic and mood of the image.
  • transfer works well on the muslin cloth, but make sure the edges get more time, as they are quite essential when peeling away, as a untransferred edge could take up the rest of the image as well when peeling it up.
  • the glossy finish seems to work better with the cream cotton bag, aswell as the straighter edges that align with the edges of the cotton. I think this doesn’t work so well with the muslin as the edges are not straight, and can be manipulated to be curved and crumpled, so the straight edges are lost with them.
  • When cutting the images off the A4 paper before transfer, try to get a close of a cut as possible, so as to not transfer any of the white border aswell. I think this almost breaks the illusion of the print, and gives it a whole different feel, taking it ‘off’ the fabric and back into an almost ‘paper form’.
Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s